Wrapping the door skin around the frame and controlling the measurements

With the skin prepared it was joined to the frame. Correct position on the frame was controlled with the L-square and the markings done earlier at the tape, Image 1. The position was controlled as exactly as possible in all directions (Z, X and Y). It is now the fitment to the rest of the car is decided!

Image 1 Controlling the skin position versus the door frame.

With the position within +/- ½ a millimeter in all directions and the skin carefully welded to the frame in two corners the folding of the skin around the frame started, Image 2. A rather heavy dolly and a crown faced hammer were the tools used.

Image 2 Folding of the skin around the frame with a not to heavy crown faced hammer and dolly.

After the folding small imperfections created by the hammering was removed by grinding, Image 3. The grit used was first number 36 followed by grit number 50. Grinding is connected with different problems but it is also possible to solve many problems with correct use of machines and grinding materials. Years of experience and experiments have ended in a new level of the grinding work. Maybe a subject for a series of blog posts later.

Image 3 With careful grinding of the folding small dents was removed.

Most, but not all doors, have 90 degrees corners in the lower ends. The inside of such a corner looks as in Image 4. Usually the corner are brazed or welded as in Image 5 and 6. The original corner on this car was left as in Image 4.

Image 4 The corner was left without welding by Volvo.
Image 5 The corner MAG-welded.
Image 6 The corner brazed.

At almost every door the skin and frame are welded together. A lot of methods have been used, see chapter 17 in the book. Volvo used two different methods when making the door. At the bottom the skin and frame was MAG welded to each other, see the dots in Image 7. At the front and the rear ends Volvo preferred resistance welding, Image 8. Not so easy to use on an old door. Even the thinnest oxidation layer, and oxidation is present everywhere on an old door, disturb the resistance welding process. Instead, in this case, the skin and frame was joined by careful plug welding with the MAG machine. Plug welding holes with 5 mm diameter was carefully drilled in the folded flange, Image 9. After careful grinding the plug was invisible.

Image 7 Skin and frame joined with MAG dots at the bottom.
Image 8 Skin and frame joined by resistance welding.
Image 9 Skin and frame joined with MAG welding. To the extreme left a drilled hole followed by the drilling of a plug hole and a welded plug. To the far right a grinded down and invisible plug.

With the inside of the door completed the periphery of the outside was grinded with a belt sander, Image 10. The belt sander is the only electric machine in the workshop.

Image 10 Grinding with a belt sander of the outside door periphery.

Now the time was for removing the reinforcement frame and removing all traces after it. At Image 11 the repaired door can be seen, note that only the lover end needed grinding with the belt sander.

Image 11 The door ready for the paint shop after a test fitting to the car.

A very important and complex work is remaining, the fitting and adjustment of the door to the car body. Here a study of the book is advised.

Panel Beating Doctor Bengt Blad

At this point in my life when I was about three quarters through the medical schooI I discovered the English wheel and the Eckold machine, and, one thing leading to another - no more time for med school.

More about the book

This book, with around 1,500 pages of reader-friendly text and about as many illustrations, is a summary of 40 years of working with vintage, collectors' and racing cars.