New rear end of the door

With help of the template made in blog post 7a new piece of sheet was created. Three of the four edges were made bigger for the following folding in the folding machine and in the swage. Image 1 shows the panel with the first edge bended. Image 2 shows the further shaping of the panel in the swaging machine. In the next step, with help of the plywood tool the upper end of the panel was shaped. The plywood tool was especially useful when hammering the corner into a soft shape in image 3. To facilitate the shaping of the soft shape a 4 mm hole was drilled from the rear side in the corner, Image 4.

Image 1. The panel, the forming has begun.
Image 2. Shaping of the panel in the swaging machine.
Image 3. Closing of the drilled hole over the plywood tool.
Image 4. The panel with the drilled corner.

The shape of the template for the most upper part of the door end is tested at Image 5. The cardboard template is hold to the door with a magnet. The two small holes indicates holes for screws for holding the rear glass channel. In the next Image, number 6, the two parts of the door end have been welded together after the glass channel holes have been prepared. This was first done with a hole punch, see the book and image 8. After punching the holes were shaped with help of two carefully chosen sockets, Image 7. Note that the right hole in the image already has been shaped. In the book a different kind of press tools can be seen.

Image 5. The upper panel template.
Image 6. The two panels welded together.
Image 7. The holes for the glass channel screws are shaped with help of two sockets.
Image 8. Punching of the opening for the door lock mechanism.

With the two parts welded together and the two glass channel holes completed the outer periphery was processed or bent 90 degree in the swaging machine, se Image 9.

Image 9. The outer periphery shaped in the swaging machine.

In the next stage the hole, 33 mm in diameter, for the door lock was punched, Image 8. The only remaining operation was the punching of the three holes for the door lock countersunk M5 screws. Image 10 show the punching and the result with the panel completed in the next illustration, Image 11.

Image 10. Shaping the countersunk holes for the door lock screws . Note the shaped hole to the right. 1. M10 nut.
Image 11. The holes shaped for the countersunk screws.

Before the new panel can be fitted the old must be removed. In Image 12 the wrapped edge of the door skin is carefully removed. This delicate work is described in detail in the book, see chapter 17. It must be emphasized that the new panel has been tested and adjusted against the door end many times during the work. It is better to check the fit one time too much and adjust in small steps rather than be forced to start with a new panel when it is almost finished.

Image 12. Removal of the old panel starts with careful cutting of the skin flange.
Image 13. Reinforcement and outer panels painted with welding primer before joining.

With the panel shaped it can be welded to the reinforcement part. In Image 13 both have been painted with welding primer before welding. 

To be continued….

Panel Beating Doctor Bengt Blad

At this point in my life when I was about three quarters through the medical schooI I discovered the English wheel and the Eckold machine, and, one thing leading to another - no more time for med school.

More about the book

This book, with around 1,500 pages of reader-friendly text and about as many illustrations, is a summary of 40 years of working with vintage, collectors' and racing cars.